In short

Alfama, Lisbon’s oldest district, takes half a day on foot: the Sé Cathedral, the Santa Luzia and Portas do Sol viewpoints, São Jorge Castle (around €15 to €17), then the walk down through the lanes to the Fado Museum (€5). On Tuesdays and Saturdays, add the Feira da Ladra flea market. In the evening, book dinner at a fado house.

Contents
  1. What to see in Alfama
  2. A walking route through Alfama
  3. A fado evening in Alfama
  4. Where to eat in Alfama
  5. Practical information
  6. FAQ

Alfama is Lisbon’s oldest district, and one of the few to have survived the 1755 earthquake. Stepped lanes, laundry at the windows, azulejos, the smell of grilled sardines and, in the evening, the voices of fado: here is what to see in Alfama, a walking route and our tips for a great fado night.

With Guidly, every lane tells you its story: the app finds the places around you and creates an audio guide based on your interests, in your language, and you can ask it questions as you go.

What to see in Alfama

São Jorge Castle

At the top of the hill, this fortress of Moorish origin, taken by Portugal’s first king in 1147, offers the best view over Lisbon: Alfama’s orange rooftops, the Tagus and the 25 de Abril Bridge. Peacocks roam its gardens. Allow around €15 to €17, and come at opening time to avoid the crowds.

São Jorge Castle skip-the-line ticket with guide

Lisbon Cathedral (Sé)

Lisbon’s oldest church, built in the 12th century, looks like a fortress with its crenellated towers. Its Gothic cloister holds Roman, Moorish and medieval remains from every era of the city’s history.

The miradouros

Lisbon’s viewpoints

  • Santa Luzia: a bougainvillea-covered pergola and azulejos, with a view of the Tagus.
  • Portas do Sol: the most famous view over Alfama’s rooftops, with a kiosk for a drink.
  • Graça and Senhora do Monte, a little higher up: the best sunsets in the city.

The Fado Museum

Fado, the melancholic song born in Alfama’s lanes, is on UNESCO’s list of intangible cultural heritage. The museum tells its story, with many recordings to listen to. Entry: €5, free for under-12s. Closed on Mondays.

São Vicente de Fora and the National Pantheon

The São Vicente de Fora monastery has one of Lisbon’s finest azulejo collections. Nearby, the white dome of the National Pantheon holds the tombs of great Portuguese figures, including the singer Amália Rodrigues.

The Feira da Ladra

On Tuesdays and Saturdays, the “thieves’ market” flea market sets up on Campo de Santa Clara: old azulejos, vinyl records and second-hand finds.

Tram 28

Tram 28

The legendary yellow tram climbs through the lanes of Alfama and Graça. Board early in the morning or at the Martim Moniz terminus to get a seat, and watch out for pickpockets.

A walking route through Alfama

  1. The Sé Cathedral, early in the morning.
  2. The Santa Luzia viewpoint, then Portas do Sol.
  3. São Jorge Castle and its ramparts.
  4. São Vicente de Fora, then the Feira da Ladra if it is Tuesday or Saturday.
  5. The walk down through Alfama’s lanes, without a map: the best way to discover the district.
  6. The Fado Museum, at the bottom, near the river.

Tip to save your legs: a free municipal lift links the Baixa to the castle district, from Rua dos Fanqueiros.

A fado evening in Alfama

Fado is heard in the evening, in a casa de fado where you have dinner while the fadistas sing, usually from 8 or 9pm. Book ahead, stay silent during the songs, and choose small houses where local fadistas sing over big venues for tour groups. Fado vadio, sung by amateurs, is a more spontaneous experience.

In June, during the Santo António festivities (the night of 12 to 13 June), Alfama is covered in garlands and people eat grilled sardines in the street until morning.

Where to eat in Alfama

  • The neighbourhood tascas: Portuguese daily specials and grilled sardines in season.
  • A casa de fado for dinner with music.
  • Chapitô à Mesa, at the foot of the castle, for the view over the Tagus.

Practical information

  • Getting there: on foot from the Baixa, by tram 28, or by bus 737 up to the castle.
  • How long: half a day for the essentials, a full day with the castle and the Fado Museum.
  • Shoes: comfortable ones; the cobbles are slippery and the slopes steep.
  • Best time: early morning for the castle, late afternoon for the light on the miradouros.

For the rest of the city: our Lisbon in 3 days itinerary and the Belém district.

FAQ

How long do you need to visit Alfama?

Half a day is enough for the cathedral, the miradouros and the lanes. Allow a full day with São Jorge Castle, the Fado Museum and a fado evening.

How do you get to Alfama?

On foot from the Baixa (with the free municipal lift to skip the climb), by tram 28, or by bus 737 to São Jorge Castle.

Where can you hear fado in Alfama?

In a casa de fado, booking dinner, from 8 or 9pm. Choose small neighbourhood houses over big tourist venues.

What is the best viewpoint in Alfama?

The Portas do Sol viewpoint for the view over the district’s rooftops, Santa Luzia for its charm, and São Jorge Castle for the panorama over the whole city.

Plan your next trip with Guidly: a personal audio guide, in 12+ languages, across 9 million places.